The most striking feature of Guwahati (also spelt Gauhati), the capital of Assam and gateway to the northeastern hill states, is the Brahmaputra, whose muddy swollen channel is so vast that the far shore is often invisible. Guwahati lies at the point where the wooded hills at the edge of the Shillong Plateau touch the southern banks of the river, with the flat alluvial plains of the Assam valley stretching away to the north. Of its many mysterious temples, Kamakhya and Navagraha overlook the river, while Umananda sits marooned on an island crag.